‘Saving energy: Take the proper steps in the proper order’
Published 6:24 am Friday, October 31, 2008
By By JOHN EBY / Dowagiac Daily News
A first step in analyzing energy use to manage consumption is knowing that 56 percent typically goes for heating and cooling.
With an annual $2,500 bill, that means $1,400 paid toward heating and cooling.
"I think that's kind of an eye-opener for most of us," Lori Ruff of Midwest Energy Cooperative in Cassopolis told Dowagiac Rotary Club Thursday noon at Elks Lodge 889.
Ruff, of Pokagon Township, joined Midwest more than two years ago.
The communications specialist and member was accompanied by her boss, Patty Nowlin, Midwest communications director.
Ruff emphasized that to conserve energy it's important to "take the proper steps in the proper order to get the most bang for your energy buck."
That means starting with sealing, then proceeding to insulation and energy innovation.
"One of the common mistakes when people start talking about their energy bills," Ruff said, "is they want to replace windows or to put in more insulation. If you haven't done your steps in the proper order – if you haven't sealed your home – you haven't (addressed) one of the greatest causes of energy leakage."
Sealing with caulk or expanding spray foam "is one of the quickest and least expensive ways to better your home's performance," she said. "It increases your energy efficiency, it improves your comfort, reduces your bills and does your part of the environment, which we all want to do. One thing I learned that I did not know is when you're caulking and you're going through your house, trying to find the leaks and the cracks and the crevices, if it's less than a quarter-inch, you want to use caulk. If it's more than a quarter-inch, you want to use your spray."
"Make sure you have protective clothing and a flashlight so you can look in all the crevices," Ruff said. "The majority of all heat loss is through the attic and the basement. There are many other areas you can look at as well. If it's in November and the winds are just a-blowing and your curtains are billowing when your furnace is not running, that's an indication you might have a crack somewhere. But for the most part, you need to look in your attic and in your basement."
Insulation should be checked for the attic, floors, the foundation and ductwork, "but I think the attic and the ductwork are the two most important," Ruff said.
The easiest and most cost-effective place to add insulation is in the attic.
"If you can see your joists, you do not have enough insulation," Ruff said. "The higher the R factor, the denser the insulation, the more protection you're going to get. You need to bring in a professional contractor if you have wet or damp insulation in your attic. If your kitchen or bathroom exhaust ducts are venting moist air into your attic, instead of outside, you need a contractor. If your home has a history of ice dams – icicles hanging are a great indicator – you need to bring in a professional. If you have little or no attic ventilation, you're going to need somebody to come in and help you."
"A lot of this is common sense," she continued, "but when you're selecting a contractor, you want to make sure you're choosy about who you get. You want to ask your neighbors. You want to ask for references. You not only want to ask for references, you want to call those references and check and make sure everybody's on the same page, and that what they're planning on doing is exactly what you're expecting that they're going to do. Spell everything out."
Ruff stressed, "The least expensive quote is not always the best."
Once the first two steps are accomplished of sealing and insulating your house, "By tightening your house, you're creating another issue, and that's carbon monoxide," Ruff said. "You want to make sure you have a detector that's working properly. You also want to make sure with your appliances that anything that has a pilot light is vented properly."
Water heaters should be set at a temperature of about 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
"Wash in warm water and rinse in cold as much as possible," Ruff said. "They have a lot of new high-energy-efficiency washing machines now that calculate that for you. Consider a thermal wrap for your water heater. Long showers cost money. I have a pre-teen and a couple of teens. This is an issue."
Fix dripping faucets, don't let water run while shaving or while brushing your teeth. Install low-flow shower heads. Drain a gallon or two from the bottom of the water heater each year to reduce sediment build-up.
Wash clothes in cold water. Use hot water only for very dirty loads.
Do only full laundry loads. If you must do smaller loads, adjust the water level in the washing machine to match the load size – especially when using hot water.
Use bath towels at least twice before washing them. Clean your dryer's lint trap before each load. Make sure that the outdoor dryer exhaust door closes when the dryer is off.
Verify the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to the inside wall fitting. Check that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to the dryer. Make sure the dryer vent hose is not kinked or clogged.
Minimize clothes drying time. Use moisture sensor on the dryer if available. Dry consecutive loads to harvest heat remaining in the dryer from last load.
Consider using a "solar-powered" clothes dryer – an old-fashioned clothes line.
Ruff recommends adequate air circulation around the refrigerator.
"It shouldn't be backed up to the wall," she said. "Let's say you went out and bought a new one because your other one was making you just a little nervous with Thanksgiving coming. You don't want to have a house full of people and your refrigerator goes out. What are you going to do with your second one that isn't energy-efficient? You need to get rid of it. Don't put it in the garage or you're defeating the purpose of getting an energy-efficient one. I know it's tempting to keep your beverage of choice cold or to hold all those extra holiday dishes."
Thermostats should be set at 78 degrees in the summer and 68 degrees in the winter. Keep your garage door down. A warmer garage in the winter and cooler garage in the summer saves energy.
Always run your HVAC system fan on "auto." Running it on "on" uses more electricity and can decrease your air conditioner's ability to remove moisture.
In two-story homes serviced by one HVAC system, a paddle fan at the top of the stairs can push down hot, second-floor air.
Replace any light bulb that burns more than one hour per day with its equivalent compact fluorescent bulb.
Turn off unnecessary lighting. Replace outdoor lighting with its outdoor-rated equivalent compact fluorescent bulb. Use fixtures with electronic ballasts and T-8, 32-watt fluorescent lamps. Use outdoor security lights with a photocell and/or a motion sensor.
Lighting is one of CEO Bob Hance's "pet peeves," according to Ruff.
"It does it's part, but it's not a silver bullet. It's a piece of the puzzle, but it's not the puzzle.
"I personally practice turning off lights at our office. I'm known for being the one who turns the bathroom light off. My co-workers don't always appreciate it when they're still using the facilities. It could explain why my stapler keeps coming up missing."